From our Special Correrpodent. London, January 1st 1914.
CORSET FASHIONS FOR 1914
The Centres of Fashion. — It is generally accepted that Paris is the recognised centre for ladies' fashions, just in the same way as London leads in producing and dictating the styles for mens' wear. It must not be lost sight of, however, that for the port decade the Metropolis has been laying claim to the production of original desings in dresses and it cannot be denied that the individuality or many of our West End dressmakers has made itself apparent by the creation of some exquisite and distinctive styles, which even vie with the best productions from Paris.
Paris, London and New York. - That Paris still leads however in the world of corsets is undeniable in spite of the assertions of our friends from New York, who lay claim each year to being the originators « the only correct styles » for the coming season. Unfortunately for our American cousins Iheir contention can scarcely hold good, seeing that both French and English corset manufacturers have already decided upon their models and styles for the early spring season ; whereas « the latest from America » always comes out long after the other fashion centres have issued their sample?, and as a matter of fact \v<> are still waiting for America's verdict on the New European styles, many of which will doubt-losr. In- si-nt over here to he boome.d and advertised as the newest ideas frr m America. To quote one instar.ee of this will suffice to illustrate my meaning. Recently in England we have heard a good deal about the so-called free-hip corset, snid to be America's newest and best conception of up-to-date corset cutting. In those corsets the boning is so arranged thai, none of the supports come in contact with the hipjoint- a thing wMcl) has been embodied in many of Ihe best French makes for years and yet this is supposed to have suddenly arrived from America as a wonderful novelty. La Ligne Norntale. — For some considerable UITI/J ladies lo bo fashio-lable have ad to appear slim and no sooner has the corsetier's art archieved ils ;iim by producing scientificaly cut corsets, which yive the desired effort, Ihiui there arises in certain quarters a df.sire fi>r frimetlriig different. In tinier to obtain this sorndhinig niew and to bring about another effect, it is "bvions tbnt there must be an alteration in Ihe sha.pe of Ihe feminine form, and that which cordeliers' in Paris and elsewhere have been striving tn eliminate — pny appearance of roundness of the figure bcluw the waist, is new being advocated in some quarters as a new fashion. The readers of « I.es Dessous Klegants H will have read wilh much interest the controversy between eminent specialists in corset designing in Paris and will have formed their own opinions as to the merits 01 demerits of this proposed new fashion. II is for me lo ncilhrT prnise nor criticise but to represent the general impression, which has been formed here on the new sh-ipe corses as introduced from Paiis duri'.g last x\-;\s m, The « Ligne Normals » with its peculiar busk will be perhaps a favou-rile with a section of English ladies — (hose inclined to corpulency, but it seems corlnin that Ihe majority will lavour for some time to come the straight-fronted slim-flgure-'prodiuicing models. There is of cowse always a certain following for every newly invented fashion, but in England it takes time to introduce a radical change and the general feeling here ie, tihat if this fastion is t<i « catch on », il will only be by a gradual process. Esp-ecially will this be the case amongst ladies, whose figures have been trained by well-cut corsets, until they have become quite in accordnnce with the corsets they have been in the hahil of wearing. that is to say, straight-frntiled. This attempt to produce something distinctive has brought forth a host of imitations and it would skulle Parisian corsetiers to see the ideas they are promulgating "jntirKiiul in cheap makes of corsets, made to look like line r«vl article, •a,n<! offered at ridiculously low prices. Paris and the Camera. - - The leading modistes of Paris are up in arms against their creations being copied immediately they are produced and in order to prevent this, many of the large and important houses arc combining to induce the Municipality to jirohibit the photographing of dresses at the big race meetings at Longchamps and Auteuil. It remains t i be seen if they will succeed in their endeavours to so jealously guard th.oiir new productions and meanwhile everyone is eurmms to know what attitude Moivsiemr Hiennimn, the chief of the Parisian police, will adopt in this matter. It is however certain that it would be quite impossible for any such prohibition to wme into torcu in London. W. I,. R. P.
De notre Correspondant spécial LONDRES, LE 1" JANVIER 10H. LA MODE ET LES CORSETS POUR 1914 II est généralement, accepté que Paris est .partout reconnu comme lo vrai centra de la mode pour toutes choses concernant la toilette de la femme ; de même que le vrai style ponir les hommes est produit et dicte par le West End de Londres. Cependant, il ne faut pas perdre de. vm: que le Wost End, pendant ki dernière d'ccade, a eu aussi des prétentions à la production de dessins originaux dans les vêtements et on ne peut pas nier, que l'individualité de pLusieurs des modiate.s londoniennes s'est fait E7par<!nte par lu création d'un grand nombre d'exquis et beaux modèles, qui rivalisent même, avec ceux des grands ateliers de Paris.
FAIIIS, LONIHÎES ET NK\V-YOHK. — yuc Paris, cependant, reste toujours h la tête dans l'iiml.ustric des corsets, c'est incontestable ; malgré les «tFserlions de nos amis de \ew-Ynrli qui prétendent, chaque année, être les auteurs des styles, qui sont les seuls aullicnliques pour la saison, qui approche. Malheureusement pour nos cousins américains, leur affirmation peut à peine être soutenue, puisque les ateliers de France et d'Angle-
